Why desert trains are different
A train through a desert is a different proposition from a train through populated country. You sit at the window for hours and very little changes. A dry riverbed. A line of low hills. Eventually a station that consists of two buildings and a stretch of platform.
What you get from the experience is a sense of scale. The desert is vast and the railway is a long pencil line across it. Watching that pencil line work, hour after hour, recalibrates your idea of distance.
Lines worth riding
The Iron Ore train across Mauritania runs from Zouerat to Nouadhibou across the Sahara. At more than two kilometres long, it is one of the longest trains in the world. Adventurous travellers ride atop the ore cars. There is also a single passenger carriage at the back.
The Ghan in Australia runs from Adelaide to Darwin, a three-day journey through the red centre. The cabins are comfortable, the windows are huge, and the stops are minimal.
The train from Almaty to Aktau crosses Kazakhstan's steppes and deserts in about three days. Carriages are basic but functional, food is brought aboard at stops.
Egypt's sleeper train from Cairo to Aswan crosses the Nile valley rather than open desert but the views of the Sahara to the west, particularly at dawn, are remarkable.
What to pack
More water than you think. Trains stop for fuel and crew changes but onboard water can be limited.
Layers. Daytime in the desert can be hot, night-time in the carriage can be cold.
Snacks. Onboard food varies from excellent to nonexistent.
A power bank. Outlets are not standard on every line.
Etiquette and rhythm
Train travel in remote regions has its own pace. People talk to each other. They share food. They sleep when they're tired rather than when the clock says.
Carry a small notebook. Some of the best travel writing I've ever read was sketched in carriages between long empty stretches.
Travel tips
- → Book sleeper class for overnight journeys
- → Pack double the water you think you need
- → Bring a power bank, outlets are unreliable
- → Learn a few words of the local language
Best season
Cooler months for Saharan and Middle Eastern routes, Australian winter for the Ghan.
How to get there
Most desert lines start from a major regional city. Book tickets well in advance for popular journeys.
What to expect
Long unchanging views, basic onboard facilities, fellow travellers willing to talk, and a sense of slow accomplishment.
Frequently asked questions
Are these trains safe?
Generally yes, with normal precautions. Watch belongings, especially at stops.
Can I get off and on?
Most don't allow stopovers on a single ticket. Plan separate legs if you want to break the journey.
Food and drink onboard?
Variable. Pack your own as a baseline.
